EAT TO THE BEAT fire and spice

EATING TO THE BEAT AT FIRE + SPICE

Yes, there is something new under the southwestern sun. Although it is best savored after dark, on the swimming pool patio of the imaginative Fire + Spice restaurant in the Sheraton Tucson Hotel and Suites, 5151 E. Grant Road.

Waving around a string of chili peppers and a shaker of his secret house seasoning, Chef David Ferrara has recast such traditional dishes as salmon filets and beef steaks. Now we get Fire-Roasted Salmon (putting some sizzle in his seafood) and a Southwestern New York Strip that’s charred tangy-crispy on the outside and on the inside tender enough to cut with a fork.

This spicy-outside-and-tasty-inside is a theme that keeps repeating through a number of dishes, all with an elegant presentation served in a Tucson casual outdoor atmosphere. So casual, in fact, diners can show up for dinner in their swim suits and take a dip between courses. Why not? Here in the Baked Apple it doesn’t always have to be a dry heat.

Adding music is like adding those spices. Going in for more detailed taste bud titillation, we couldn’t resist opening with the riffing horn section promised in those Wings Del Diablo ($8). Coated with a Prickly Pear Jalapeno Glaze, these chicken wings hit all the high notes that command attention. But wait...there’s more. Dip that tangy tidbit into some Chipotle Ranch Dressing (served on the side) and it’s like adding a swinging cymbal to the chorus.

Or go for a kinder, smoother ballad-like experience in an order of Jalapeno Snake Bites ($8). Stuffed with a shrimp, cream cheese, cilantro mousse, then wrapped in bacon, these Snake Bites are in a mellow mood.

Steak took over the salad course like Stan Kenton’s big band. The Santa Rita Steak Salad ($11) flaunts it meaty goodness with slender beef slices that have a peppery crunch wrapped around that tasty, tender center. Think of those Kenton brass accents boldly leading the way to more lyrical inner passages. Whether it’s this steak or those classic recordings, the two flavors can’t be separated.

A Chipotle Caesar Salad ($8) was also note-worthy. Longtime traditional Caesar fanciers will find this southwestern version to be an upbeat rendition, with its unexpected grilled sweet corn accents cutting through like a happy-faced banjo solo.

The entrees feature beef, shrimp, pork and salmon, plus Grilled Chicken Pasta ($15-$24) for a pretty complete song list of choices. We were impressed by the Grilled Pork Tenderloin ($17) served with Anaheim tomatillo cream, chef’s sweet potatoes, grilled vegetables and charred jalapeno. True to the Fire + Spice signature, this dish is also prepared with that crunchy-sweet touch.

“The flavors remind me of a finely-tuned Steinway,” said one member of our party. Another spoke of the “southwestern flavor explosion.” Just like variations on a theme, each of these offerings had its roots in tradition then was given that twist of difference.

More subtle is the Fire Roasted Salmon ($19), definitely more complex than that name would imply. Think of an Artie Shaw orchestration, full of exquisite flavors artfully combined. Add a delicate clarinet solo and you’ve got it. The food notes are Chipotle honey glaze, Arizona rice, grilled mango and sautéed spinach.

For dessert, what could be more appropriate than Fried Ice Cream ($7). Served in a large bowl big enough for two, a giant scoop of vanilla ice cream is coated in Frosted Flakes and drizzled with honey. Talk about a grand finale, this is it. Eating to this beat was truly a treat.

As for the live music, trad jazz is provided poolside on the patio by the Arizona Roadrunners every Tuesday evening. Other bands play on a more ala carte basis. For current details, check www.sheratonsuitestucson.com

Stay Tuned Another new feature in our Doin’ It For The Love series is on the way. This series spotlights individuals in the arts community who are making a difference with their work to benefit various non-profit arts organizations in theater, film, dance and jazz. Watch for the next of these personality pieces in mid-August.

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